Changangkha Lhakhang, a fortress-like temple, is strategically perched on a ridge above Thimphu, to the south-east of Motithang. Its awe-inspiring presence is a hub of spiritual activity, with pilgrims visiting throughout the year. Built in the 12th century by Lama Pharjo Drukgorn, a Tibetan Lama from Ralung, this sacred site was chosen for its divine location. Over the centuries, the temple has served various functions, and it remains one of Bhutan's most significant and captivating architectural gems.
Traditionally, parents would bring their newborns here to receive auspicious names and blessings for their children from the temple's guardian, Deity Tamdrin. The children would be blessed with a ritual dagger (Phurba) and given a holy thread, ensuring their protection. The temple also houses larger-than-usual Tibetan texts, adding to its historical significance. From its serene courtyard, visitors are treated to a breathtaking view of Thimphu.
Location and Opening Hours
Changangkha Lhakhang is situated approximately 1km from downtown Thimphu, close to many hotels and accommodations in the area. A ten-minute drive from the town centre will bring you to the temple, or, for those seeking a more invigorating experience, a 30-minute walk uphill will lead you to the site. While the uphill walk may be challenging, the stunning view that awaits at the temple makes it all worthwhile. The walk back to the town centre, however, is much easier, taking only around 15 minutes downhill.
The temple opens early in the morning and closes in the evening, with closing times typically depending on daylight hours. Visitors are advised to arrive before 6 pm, as entry is not permitted after dark. Fortunately, the temple is open every day of the week throughout the year.
What to Expect
Inside the temple, various daily rituals take place. You'll see parents seeking blessings for their children or requesting special names for their newborns from the resident monks. Offerings, such as incense, whiskey, biscuits, and sacks of snacks, are made in exchange for the blessings.
As a visitor, you'll be invited to bow before the portrait of the king and then turn to bow three times before the sanctum's centerpiece – a statue of the thousand-armed deity of compassion, Chenrezi. The atmosphere exudes a deep sense of compassion, making it an immensely spiritual experience.
Bhutan Power Corporation illuminated the temple with dramatic white lights, casting a warm burnt orange glow on the wooden upper walls, while the window recesses shine in red. The effect enhances the temple's serene beauty, especially during the evening hours.
Special Events and Ceremonies
Changangkha Lhakhang is also a venue for special Buddhist rituals, which take place throughout the year. If your visit coincides with one of these ceremonies, you'll be fortunate to witness the vibrant spiritual events that often attract large numbers of devotees, especially during significant Buddhist festivals.
